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全部约吗WE-What we need from policy: Fast-track sustainable materials
█Sustainability is a priority for a growing number of fashion brands and designers, but policymakers haven’t caught up. The lag in regulation is dragging on the industry’s ability to move forward in a meaningful way, and as the urgency of climate change increases, researchers, sustainability-focused brands, nonprofit policy directors and environmental and labour advocates say it’s time for stricter standards and policies that enforce them. A key starting point for policy is the starting point for fashion itself: the raw materials.“Governments create the rules of the global economy and therefore need to both regulate and incentivise companies to operate in a way that protects workers and the living planet,” says Sarah Ditty, global policy director at Fashion Revolution. “Government policies and laws are absolutely essential to ensuring that our clothes are made by people who have been paid fairly and treated with dignity and without polluting and destroying the environment.”© Artwork hand printed by Hannah Cousins, exclusively forVogue BusinessFashion has long relied on voluntary mechanisms for making change. Laws governing supply chain conditions today are a global patchwork of inconsistency, according to campaigners. Environmental and social standards are stronger in some countries than others — which labour and environmental advocates say is why manufacturing hubs have shifted over time, as brands move to countries with the lowest operating costs — and even the laws that do exist are often broken with brands rarely held responsible when they are. Often only in the most egregious cases, such as the ongoing use of forced labour in China’s cotton sector, do brands announce they will distance themselves from the problem, but that neither solves the problem nor prevents it or other violations from happening again or anywhere else.Putting sustainable fashion policy in the hands of legislators puts clear responsibility on the part of governments and brands — not the customers — to shift the market forward. Unless all brands are required to take steps like investing in renewable energy, sourcing more sustainable raw materials and paying better wages for workers, the ones that choose to do so voluntarily are taking on greater expense that creates an uneven playing field — often driving up their prices in the process, perpetuating the idea that sustainability is a luxury. Industry wide standards would establish an equal playing field while fostering customer trust. Starting with raw materials, which represents the beginning of the supply chain for most brands — and the largest portion of a garment’s total environmental footprint — is key.Aspart of the European Green Deal, the European Union identified textiles as a key driver of raw material use, water consumption and greenhouse gas emissions; it also acknowledged that most of the impacts linked to clothing and footwear occur elsewhere. To tackle those issues, the EU is developing atextiles strategythat could specify targets for recycling efforts and include green “public procurement” initiatives as ways to boost the EU market for sustainable textiles.That could both drive more sustainable production of traditional raw materials, like cotton, and boost the use of newer innovations like textile recycling technologies, many of which have trouble competing financially with virgin materials — such as polyester, which is cheap in part because of fossil fuel subsidies that climate experts want eliminated. “The EU textiles strategy and initiatives like Textiles 2030, among others, are tackling head on some of the key barriers and stepping stones needed to pave the way for circular textiles,” says Cyndi Rhoades, founder of Worn Again Technologies.Community leader Luiz Lopes walks through a deforested area of the Brazilian Amazon. Cattle ranching (including to supply the leather industry) has fuelled deforestation in the Amazon and contributed significantly to climate change. © Mario Tama/Getty ImagesIndividual countries are taking other steps in the meantime. In the Netherlands, a proposed policy programme aims for new clothes to have 30 per cent recycled content and possibly 50 per cent by 2030. Sweden has explored a similar mechanism and is considering a chemical tax, to reduce the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing and other products. Both countries are also, among others, considering implementing a system for taxing companies for the products they put into the market. The key objective is to increase their responsibility for where those products end up when the consumer is done with them, but the taxation may be tiered in such a way that the more sustainable the products are in the first place, the lower the fee will be.In 2018, the nonprofit Textile Exchange released a legislative proposal for the US Congress to change the import tax structure for materials, which could incentivise brands to source more sustainable fibres by giving them a tax break for doing so. Cost is the top barrier that the organisation’s member brands cite to sourcing more sustainable raw materials, says chief operating officer Claire Bergkamp, and removing tariffs can start to offset the increased costs of production. (The proposal stagnated under the previous administration, but Bergkamp says they’re optimistic about seeing it brought back to life with the new Congress and president.)“From a brand point of view, there is no financial or legislative incentive to source better,” she says. Bergkamp joined Textile Exchange in October after spearheading sustainability operations for Stella McCartney for nearly nine years. “Price parity helps brands, who may financially be struggling with shareholders or board members, to use more preferred fibres. It’s helping to try and create that market condition.”Other efforts could require brands to disclose their emissions or meet certain targets across their entire supply chains — a particularly weak spot for fashion brands, which only recently began addressing sustainability beyond their own operations. Agriculture today, including farms growing fibre crops like cotton and wool as well as cattle ranches that supply leather to the fashion industry but have significantly increased deforestation, is a major contributor to climate change — but with different farming practices, it has the potential to mitigate rather than exacerbate the problem by sequestering carbon in healthy soils and increasing ecosystem resilience. It’s a key reason why brands like Patagonia and Eileen Fisher have worked with regenerative farmers or organisations like Fibershed.A cotton dress by Eileen Fisher. The brand now works with regenerative farmers. © Eileen FisherSupply chains are fragmented and it can be hard for brands to know where their materials come from — but they need to stop using that as an excuse, says Ditty. The vast majority of clothing’s carbon footprint is generated by the production and processing of raw materials. To comply with regulations likely coming down the pike, brands will need to drastically reduce the emissions their raw materials are responsible for, whether they own or have a relationship with the cotton farm, cattle ranch or wool supplier or not.As these regulations come to fruition, however, brands may have a real wake-up call if and when they try to shift their sourcing. Global supplies of organic cotton are already limited, and increasing them takes time and concerted resources.“Companies are already in a pinch right now, there’s not enough organic cotton to meet the demand,” says Gwendolyn Wyard, vice president of regulatory and technical affairs at the Organic Trade Association, an industry group for organic businesses in the US. “I think the writing is on the wall that taking a proactive approach right now is kind of the only way, and in general the markets are always going to move faster than regulation.”One way that brands can be proactive is to support farmers in the process of transitioning to organic production — a three-year period that is costly for farmers but doesn’t earn them the organic price premium. The UK allows for an “Organic in Conversion” label after just one year, and the Global Organic Textile Standard has one as well; organic agriculture advocates would like to see that adopted more widely. US farmers have no such incentive to convert, says Lori Wyman, GOTS North America representative, which puts them at an economic disadvantage and doesn’t help to address the limited supply.Cotton grown by Norma and Dosi Alvarez, New Mexico cotton farmers who transitioned to organic and sold their “in transition” cotton to Eileen Fisher. © Eileen FisherEngagement from brands can be meaningful for farmers. When New Mexican cotton farmers Norma and Dosi Alvarez transitioned to organic practices, selling some of the transitional crop to Eileen Fisher helped the process along, according to Norma Alvarez. The food sector has successfully done the same for several years.Organic and regenerative agriculture relies on greater diversity in the crops they grow and in their soil than most industrial farms practice. If fashion could help farmers find markets for the rotation crops, for example, Organic Trade Association farm policy director Johanna Mirenda says it can be a win-win. “Organic farms are diverse and supply chains need to support that diversity,” she says. It’s a way to connect with consumers and stay ahead of the game on climate messaging and action. “The climate benefits of food and fibre are really appealing to consumers. That’s an area where brands can take a leading role.”Jennifer Fisher Clay, founder of the Washington, DC-based Fisher Clay Group, an advocacy and social impact consultancy, has her eyes on a number of efforts in the US as the new administration gets underway. Congress is expected to revisit earlier work on climate that could include agriculture. US President Biden has discussed pursuing a number of actions immediately, including requiring public companies to disclose the climate risks and greenhouse gas emissions in their supply chains, and his climate plan includes decarbonising the agriculture sector, “and leveraging agriculture to remove carbon dioxide from the air and store it in the ground”. That would almost certainly entail a large-scale shift toward organic and regenerative agriculture.For Clay, the fact that government efforts are underway but still in development is the strongest reason for fashion to take action now, because it still has time to get ahead.“It’s better to get involved now, and drive the conversation and influence policies that advance the industry forward, than be stuck with policies that hamper due to lack of representation in the decision room,” she says. “We can’t be an industry left behind while consumers and the world are moving forward.”
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